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How to Build a Solar Panel: A Step-by-Step Guide

Updated: Apr 6

Introduction: My Solar Panel Journey


Hey there! So, let me tell you about my summer adventure. I’m currently a college student studying computer engineering. This summer, I decided to dive into the world of solar energy. Why? Well, I wanted to learn how to build a solar panel from scratch. Plus, have you seen the prices of commercially built solar panels? Yikes!


I started my journey by searching for videos and articles. But let me tell you, finding a comprehensive guide was like searching for a needle in a haystack! I ended up watching about four different videos and even signed up for a forum to ask questions. It was a bit of a wild ride, but I was determined.


Halfway through my project, I thought, “Why not create a free video to help others?” So, that’s exactly what I did! It took time to edit the video and set up a website, but I saw it as a way to give back.


In this post, I’ll walk you through how to build a 63-watt solar system. I know I’m a visual learner, so I hope you find this helpful too!


Step 1: Creating a Template & Putting the Frame Together


First things first, I needed a template for my solar cells. I grabbed a spare piece of plywood, a piece of cardboard the size of a solar cell, some tile spacers, and a staple gun. The tile spacers were super handy for keeping my solar cells even. You can check out Part 1 of my video for a visual guide.


Using a ruler helped me keep everything aligned. Cutting the plywood with a jigsaw was a breeze, but a hand saw works just fine too. Once my template was ready, I moved on to assembling the frame.


I used a 1x2x8 piece of plywood and cut it to fit the outer frame. I made sure it wasn’t too high to catch all that glorious sunlight! I placed the plywood pieces on top of the 2x4 pressure-treated plywood, screwed them down, and sanded the whole frame. After sanding, I applied two coats of Deck and Siding paint for UV protection and water resistance. I also painted the 2x4 piece of pegboard with two coats of the same paint.


Step 2: Assembling the Solar Cells


While my first coat dried, I started assembling the solar cells. Honestly, the best way to learn this part is to watch the video. But here’s a quick overview: the bottom of the solar cell is positive, and the top is negative. I connected 36 solar cells in series to achieve 63 watts.


Using tabbing wire and a soldering iron, I connected the solar cells. I ended up with three strings of solar cells. To connect those, I used a bus wire. It’s like a snake curled up at the end of the strings. For a detailed look, check out Part 3 of the video.


Step 3: Creating Holes for My Connections


Once the pegboard and plywood had two coats of paint, it was time to screw the pegboard down inside the frame. I placed the solar cells inside to mark where the screws would go, then took them out to screw the pegboard down. Next, I drilled two holes at the end of my frame for the negative and positive connections. You can find more about this in Part 4 of the video.


Step 4: Gluing the Solar Cells Down


Now it was time to glue the strings of solar cells to the pegboard using silicone. You can see my method in Part 5 of the video. Once I had two strings glued down, I soldered the bus wire on one end to bond them together. After soldering any string, it’s a good practice to check the voltage/current right away. Don’t wait until everything is connected! This tip is also mentioned in the video.


Step 5: Soldering Bus Wire


After hooking up all three strings of solar cells in series, I was ready to prepare my 22-gauge wires (red and black) for soldering. I attached connectors to the ends of my wires to make soldering easier. You can see how I did this in Part 7 of the video.


To tidy up the inside of the solar panel, I used two strips of wiremold to run the wires inside. After that, I took the panel outside to test the voltage/current. I was thrilled to see I was getting 18 volts and 3.5 amps in an open circuit!


Step 6: Visiting the Electric Side


In Part 9 of my video, I covered the electrical side of the solar system. You’ll need a charge controller, a deep cycle battery, and an inverter. Hooking them up is pretty straightforward. I connected the solar panel to the solar side of the charge controller, then hooked the battery connection side to the deep cycle battery. From there, I connected the battery to the inverter. Easy peasy! Check out Part 9 for the full process and see what devices I powered with my solar system.


Step 7: Adding Even Pressure on the Plexiglass


To secure my 2x4 piece of plexiglass, I needed to provide even pressure around all the edges. I used another set of the same outer frame pieces of plywood on top of the plexiglass. Be careful when drilling into the plexiglass to avoid cracking it. Make sure you use screws designed for pressure-treated lumber. For more details, refer to Part 10 of the video.


Step 8: Installing the Junction Box


In Part 11 of the video, I finished connecting the back pieces of plywood that would support my solar panel when it was time to mount it on the roof. I also installed a junction box on the back of the solar panel, which is standard for most solar panels. My junction box came with a blocking diode to prevent backflow of current when connected to a battery. If your charge controller doesn’t have this feature, you’ll need to install a blocking diode on the solar panel. It’s best to place it outside the panel for easy replacement if needed.


Finally, I applied silicone around all the edges of the solar panel and the junction box on the back. After a final voltage/current check, I was ready to mount the panel on my roof!


Step 9: My Thoughts on the Whole Project


Overall, this project was a blast! I spent around £400-£500, including the battery, charge controller, and deep cycle battery. By building my own solar system, I saved a ton of money. A commercial solar panel would have cost at least £400 just for the panel alone!


So, if you’re thinking about diving into solar energy, I say go for it! It’s a rewarding experience, and you’ll learn so much along the way.


Master of Nunn is no expert so get an expert

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